Bike-Strut (Newbie advice needed)

[CousinLarry]

mannybolone said:I considered that but that doesn't make sense to me given the topography I live in. I don't need 20 gears but at least 7-8 would make sense.




Honestly a basic derailleur set-up isn't that hard to work on. There are enough decent videos online to walk you through basic fixes, and unless you are really hard on your bike you won't have to do much to keep it working smoothly.





I overheard a girl at the community bike shop saying how she wanted a fixie. This was in Charlottesville Virginia, which is basically one giant hill after another. She said it would just be easier in a lot of ways. Easier to walk it around maybe. Topography is very important in picking the right bike.

 

[mannybolone]

Casual question: as one leaps up the price chart...let's say from $300 to $700 to $1500 - is the quality of the ride that obvious as you upgrade? Are you paying primarily for the quality of parts?

 

[ketan]

That's a tough question to answer simply. I think the most apparent difference between bikes across those price points will be the weight of the bike you get. Don't get me wrong, the quality of the parts will most definitely be poorer in cheaper bikes, but differences between low and middle, and middle and upper price range bikes may only become apparent in the long term as parts of cheaper plastic degrade more quickly from season to season than parts with tougher plastic/alloys. But if you're happy with the weight and "feel" of a bike (regardless of price point), and you take good care of it (e.g., store it indoors when not riding) and have it tuned up a couple of times a season, you should be happy with the ride for a number of years.





For what it's worth, I commute 5 miles each way most days and I recently upgraded from an old single-speed (not fixie) workhorse Miyata to a Giant Seek, which falls into that middle prince range, and which is a really solidly built, relatively light, and fairly bland looking bike. The latter is a plus in Toronto, where bikes (used to?) get stolen on the regular.





Other things:





For commuting, unless you are off-roading it, you don't need shocks.





Also for commuting, I have far prefered this integrated basket/handlebar to latch-on baskets or paniers. The former bounce around too much and the latter can add a lot of weight to the bike. It's ugly, but this thing has been a dream all season:


http://www.mybiketinley.com/Evo-Handlebar-Basket-254MM--Black_p_19830.html

 

[phongone]

The jump in price typically reflects upgrade in frame material (from aluminum to carbon) and/or upgrade in groupset, ie, the "drivetrain" (cranks/chainring/derailleur/gear levers). I say it is definitely worth it to pay the premium for decent/good groupset-- the parts last longer, less breakdown, more efficient ride, cleaner shifting, etc. Entry level groupset classification for Shimano-branded equipment (most common) are Sora and Tiagra. I would steer clear of those and get a bike with "105" groupset at the minimum. Or if you got the dough, shoot for Ultegra or Dura-Ace, which is top of the line. Bikes with 105 typically go over $1000.

 

[phongone]

Oh yeah, to answer your question, quality of ride definitely improves with better groupset.

 

[Delay]

mannybolone said:I considered that but that doesn't make sense to me given the topography I live in. I don't need 20 gears but at least 7-8 would make sense.




I used to work as a messenger in richmond, va. anyone that has lived there can tell you the entire downtown area in built on a steppe. it's really like a mini sf. i would take a fixed gear with the right ratio over a road bike any day for climbing those hills. the one thing that i liked better on a road bike was coasting downhill.

 

[CBear]

I was in a similar situation a couple years ago and purchased a used 1994 Trek 5500 carbon road bike on craiglist for $700. It went for approximately $3000 new 17 years ago. It has full campagnolo chorus groupset from the factory. I was amazed at how far I could ride that bike for being relatively out of shape. I had it fitted to me at a bike shop that new what they were doing, and that made a huge improvement in my willingness to ride regularly. Now I ride 5.5 miles to work and back a couple times a week. It takes me 17 minutes by bicycle and 11 minutes by car. I feel great riding it.





I'm not sure if this was the best possible solution for my budget, but I'm very glad I made the decision and I've been riding ever since.

 

[dukeofdelridge]

even a junky bike will last long enough for you to figure out if you're cut out for riding bikes. just grab something and start pedaling already!





b/w





18 month analysis paralysis?--I think you're a perfect fit to become a lifelong bike person

 

[CBear]

My friend at the bike shop says a randonneuring bike is great for long distances.

 

[mannybolone]

dukeofdelridge said:


18 month analysis paralysis?--I think you're a perfect fit to become a lifelong bike person




Exactly. Hence my apprehension.

 

[Almond]

I biked everywhere, everyday for years. Now I live somewhere else and drive all the time. A shame, really. But it was the riding, not the ride, that I loved.





A good bike is a good bike, but in the end, you're just riding it. I'd grab anything decent. My cousin got a nice Bianchi for $150 on CG from someone who didn't know what it was worth. A couple hundred bucks won't put you back much. Try it out, play, have fun. If you're ready to "go farther" as your little one says, take the dive and get something Phongone would approve of. You can always sell back a used bike for a similar cost, but even a bike with a top-of-the-line group set will lose a fraction of its resale value sitting in your garage.

 

[BallzDeep]

faux_rillz said:

Let me worry about the distance.

hahaha

 

[dollar_bin]

Start with something cheap and when the limitations become apparent, upgrade if you're willing to stick with the hobby.

 

[Aser]

For what you're doing, your best bet is a relaxed geometry road frame as mentioned by lazer above. Basically, it's called a touring bike, either in steel or aluminum. You'll want rack/fender mounts if you're going 60 miles.





frame materials are





steel - great feel, shock absorbtion, heavier. Look for tange, chromoly, reynolds, butted.





aluminum - light, cheap, but very very harsh ride. Most new bikes in your price range are aluminum. Harsh ride can be countered with a carbon fork and seatpost.





carbon fiber or titanium - out of your price range





Clipless pedals - if you're scared about clipping in, there are half/half spd pedals that have a platform on one side and clip on the other. Gives you the option to rock cycling shoes and also regular shoes for when biking w/ your childrens.





Drivetrain - might be harder to find but sram apex will be another affordable choice, it's cheaper than 105 and performs comparably.





bars - I think long distances = drop road bars. You'll want to change hand positions over a long ride, something you can't do with flat bars. Riding in the same grip for a long time = pain, not good.





seat - resist the urge to get a plushy seat, you're losing valuable pedal power. Seats are such a personal topic, you should buy from a place that allows returns so you can go through a few of them before deciding. The saddle of choice for roadies is the fizik arione. Brooks saddles are heavier and will take a while to break in, they are very nice though. You should think about lycra padded shorts at that distance, yes you'll look silly but it is key for distance riding.





lock - KEY, one of the first things people neglect with a bike purchase, people cheap out on a lock and get their shit jacked. You need a solid u-lock, minimum a kryptonite evolution (orange ones). Preferably combine that with a cable lock to the front wheel. 2 different types of locks requires two sets of tools. Never use a cable lock on its own, it can be cut w/ cable cutters in less than 10 seconds.





If you want to buy new at that price range, you're going with bikesdirect. LBS will not be able to compete.

 

[jjohnson]

I cycle every saturday and sunday morning. 20-30 miles each day. I've completely out grown (skill-wise) my 5-year old bike and could really use an upgrade.





My advice: just grab a decent road or cyclocross bike and start riding. Regularly.


Upgrade your gear/bike as your skill level increases.





No need in buying a top-of-the-line bike/parts that can't be used to it's intended potential. With experience, you'll figure out what you'll need and don't need





(co-sign on bikesdirect too! Great prices.)