The food *is* bad. it's not cause they can't cook; it's because there's just not much in the way of ingredients available to the average Cuban (fucked economy- and rations-related). Best food I had on the island was the little pulled pork sliders right off the whole pig spit from from a street vendor, though these are hard to find. Don't expect Miami-level delicious Cuban food in Cuba.
That said, the people are amazing. I must say I've never traveled in a country where the locals were so enthused to meet/talk with Americans (not sure if you're American). I was pleasantly surprised.
What I did was rent a car and drive around the island. I picked up hitchhikers, stopped at random tobbacco farms, got a ticket. I had farmers flag me down, invite me into their shacks, and pull out home-made rum and hand-rolled cigars.
Great trip.
(Though as a Yanqui, I had money issues. Credit cards leave a paper trail, and ATMs -- to the extent that you can find one -- don't work for our bank accounts on account of the embargo. I was basically rolling around for a month with a wad of US bills. Kinda sketchy, but there's no better country to do it in as Cuba is among the safest countries in the world for tourists.)