As for the skate...We were eating on a Thursday night, with a friend who is a regular there and takes a lot of clients to Esca. He knows the somelier, and they came to say hello before the meal. So, when we were talking to the waitress, I trusted her opinion, as we were with a regular. Like I said, it was good, but not great. Also, it was worth a risk, as we were splitting the main courses- and as I said, we sent one back. Which was...The Stripped Bass, the speciality of the house.
I guess my point is...I'm sick of my just-ok meal being my fault, and not that of the kitchen. A good restaurant should be able to make a turd taste good (note there reverence chefs give Thomas Keller, to get us back on topic, for the way he can elevate entrails and radishes). I think that the kitchen just had a bad night when we ate at Esca, which has become a much longer story than it should have been.
Check, please.
So the striped bass was grilled and you're not used to eating crispy fish skin? Unless the fish was undercooked sounds like there was nothing wrong with it. The house specialty is the whole
Mediterranean sea bass baked in a sea salt egg white crust.
Splitting a composed main fish course at the table is a bit difficult and isn't the best look imo.
There very few millionaire chefs like Pasternack that stay and run the kitchen all day long. Other celebrity chefs make a name for themselves, get into marketing and have crappy restaurants. If Keller's using artificially enlarged foie gras then ingredient quality is obviously not his concern. Esca is by far the best Italian seafood restaurant in the states and if you ever see the monkfish liver with 25 year old balsamic vinegar in the altro section its a must have.
Ok. 1) used to eating crispy fish skin. 2) the seabass tasted like charcoal. not fish. not brine. not ocean. not meat. burnt charcoal. 3) Ok. Whole fish in salt crust is the speciality. But, I'm feeding my lady the new yorker article, where pasternak says striped bass is his favorite fish, it never comes off the menu, etc. etc. etc. So, when she orders the stripper it seems a no brainer. 4) yes, I know that Pasternak was not in the kitchen. He was closing his other restaurant that same week; I'd talked that out with my friend at James Beard before we went. Was not expecting the pasternak attack. And, frankly, I've worked in enough kitchens to know the schedule of those who have their name on the joint.
Taking bites off your companion's fish at the table is, was, and will always be fine by me; perhaps we should not eat out together. If I'm going out with friends, and we've already had crudo tastings, apps, and a pasta course, why not steal a little bit off the other plate? All friends at my table.
look. My hopes were high. I wanted to love the place. And you can love Esca to your hearts little content. but, my meal there was not great. Now, I didn't get the monkfish liver, but we gave 'em a good shot on a lot of other items. So, it will be a while before I go back to the best Italian seafood restaurant in the states; and it isn't my fault, but theirs.